As you may recall from recent coverage of NY Fashion Week (Fall 2009), fashion is yet another area that has been affected by the recent economic downturn.  No, fashion has not stopped, but for many designers, large fashion shows in the Bryant Park tents just were not in this year’s financial picture (See articles here and here).

So, from e-mail invites to ‘Installations‘ and ‘Presentations‘, fashion continues and adapts.

Interestingly enough, the ‘Presentations’ - like this one from Naeem Khan, put me in mind of an art/fashion  exhibition that I was lucky enough to attend several years ago at the Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI) - Theatre de la Mode - on loan from the Maryhill Museum of Art. I was actually lucky enough to see the rarely shown ‘Opera Set’ which is actually too tall to be exhibited at the MMA.

The Theatre de la Mode came about as a result of the immediate Post WWII period when French couturiers were subject to such drastic manufacturing shortages that putting on any kind of fashion show seemed impossible.  There were doubts that Haute Couture could survive. When shoes and food are rationed luxuries, what place does fashion hold?

After all, if you are considering attempting to power hair dryers via ‘pedal power’ - things are definitely on the tight side (From May 1945 issue of Mechanix Illustrated).

But, fashion finds a way. In this case, the result was a collection of miniature wire-frame 27.5-inch dolls wearing the newest fashions by renowned French Fashion Designers. Fabrics were scarce, but having each fashion house design for and clothe a two-foot tall doll was much more realistic than having each designer try to have a complete fashion show.  Even with fabric shortages, small amounts of luxury materials could be acquired to perform this task. So, this was the basis if the Theatre de la Mode.  It has also been referenced  as ‘Theatre de la Mode, or the Return of Hope’; the subtitle reflecting that even though times were difficult and luxuries were rare, that people would continue to dream and create. 

Now back to 2009 ‘Presentations’ - Just to give you a quick point of reference:

Naeem Khan ‘Presentation’ - Photo via www.nypost.com

Then, a quick comparison photo from the Theatre de la Mode exhibition:

Interestingly similar appearance. At least today’s fashion houses are not limited by materials shortages and rationing that significantly limit what they can produce - even for a 2 foot tall model.

So, here are more photo’s from a period when fashion was at a much lower point than we are seeing today.  It is a wonderful window on the staying power of art, beauty, and fashion:

And yes, the fashion houses even made beautifully stitched shoes and other accessories to go along with the diminutive dolls.

All Theatre de la Mode exhibition photos courtesy of B.A. White

So we are reminded that even in the toughest times, art and fashion find a way to prevail.

The MMA normally exhibits three of the in-house sets per year, changing which sets are on display annually. If you find yourself in Seattle or Portland, the extra trip out toward the Columbia Gorge in southeast Washington to catch this exhibit is definitely worth the drive.

On a related note: If you happen to be a doll collector with a love of history, the Tonner Doll Company has made reproductions of several of the Theatre de la Mode fashion dolls.

Additional reading for those interested in learning more on this exhibit and its history:

‘Theatre de la Mode, Fashion Dolls: The Survival or Haute Couture’ Revised 2nd Edition, Palmer/Pletsch Publishing

‘Theatre de la Mode’ Rizzoli, New York, In Cooperation with the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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Thanksgiving is upon us.  And, as the house slowly fills with the unmistakable and homey aromas of sage and rosemary roast turkey, I wanted to stop for a moment to reflect on the contribution made by Roger Vivier that is most commonly referred to as the Pilgrim Pump.

Yes, this is the unavoidable Thanksgiving post. So, let’s chat about the Pilgrim Shoe.

Not This Shoe:

But This Shoe:

So, here’s to Roger Vivier. While well-known for his revival* of the stiletto n the 1950’s - particularly during Hollywood’s ‘Golden Years’  (Think Marilyn Monroe in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes), Mr. Vivier is also well-remembered for the classic buckled-vamp ‘Pilgrim Shoe’.

Originally introduced in the 1960’s to compliment then-current Mod fashions, and made famous by Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour, the style was instantly recognizable and became  as iconically associated with the Vivier name as the stiletto.

A classic and much imitated shoe, the Vivier Pilgrim shoe (La Belle Vivier) was re-introduced in 2004 under Bruno Frisoni to a whole new generation of fans.  More recently, the iconic buckle has been featured on handbags  offered by the House of Vivier.

So, here’s the eye-candy:

Personally, I love the black pump with the contrasting red buckle. The hint of color-blocking adds just the right amount of sass to an otherwise conservative style.

Of course, those of you who love to celebrity-watch may recognize the strappy buckles sandals; Shoebunny has all the details on just which celebrity wore these here.

The ‘eye-candy’ styles shown are all currently available at  the styledrops.com Roger Vivier Corner; Prices range from $739 to $989 for pictured styles. 

For those interested in more historical information on Vivier, several additional articles and references are available. 

*Credit to graymnce for editorial correction on the stiletto article.

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It may seem like Ed Hardy is an overnight success - the tattoo brand has popped up and gained a ton of street creed within a few short years. Ed Hardy merchandise is spreading like wildflower in every department store that I’ve frequented. I see people wearing the line everywhere I go and even Gucci has caught onto the trend in its Tattoo Heart Collection ad featuring Rihanna.

However, Ed Hardy has actually been around for a few decades. The man behind the tattoos, Don Ed Hardy (pictured below), is a tattoo artist whose origins begin in the late 1960s while studying printmaking at the San Francisco Art Institute. While acting as an understudy of Sailor Jerry Collins in Hawaii, Ed Hardy refined his craft to produce graphic, detailed designs melded by his interest in American, Japanese tattoo work, surf, and the look we see on hot rod cars. Today, Ed Hardy is retired. But Christian Audigier of Von Dutch fame licensed the name in 2004 and drew upon Ed’s work to create the pop culture brand we know now.

Now I had doubts about whether the tattoo trend has long legs. Primarily, I couldn’t imagine the look gaining even more popularity than it already has. But I will put my vote in that the trend will last, at a minimum, through Spring 2009. Here are the main reasons why.

Last month I attended the Ed Hardy Spring ‘Street Fame’ 2009 Fashion Show. The overarching theme of the collection was colorful layers, flashy displays of color, and really, really over-accessorizing the Ed Hardy brand. I mean, look at these models - from the hat, purse, belt, skirt, tights, and boots, scarf (which I love and think it’ll make any plain outfit pop) - everything is from the Ed Hardy line. I wouldn’t be surprised if the underwear was also from the brand. At one point, one of the male models even carried out a gigantic Ed Hardy energy drink (not sure if this was a prop or if we’ll see this in stores soon) and there was even an Ed Hardy car freshener sample in the gift bags we received.

But the apple of my eye rested on these runway 4 inch patent platform pumps. The shape is traditional and nothing to write home about. The uniqueness is on the sole. Whereas YSL is copying Louboutin’s trademark red sole with a blue sole, the Ed Hardy soles are uniquely decorated by intricate tattoo designs. From what I could tell, each shoe had different tattoo designs so the casual gawker will be kept guessing what’s in and on the sole.

For the remainder of the show, the looks were pretty much in line with the Ed Hardy that we trust. There was the prerequisite Ed hardy sneakers and boots (who will wear them during spring, I cannot say). And really, one can already purchase them, albeit in slightly different colors, at Zappos right now. The sneakers are $69 and the snowblazer boots are $399.

I even had my chance to be marked by Christian Audigier himself. At the end of the show, Mr. Audigier came out for his curtain call and threw Ed Hardy hats from the runway (see in motion shot below).

One of the trucker hats actually hit me on the forehead.  So now I have a special(look closely at the slight imperfections on the hat) memento of the show.

Now, I was equally interested in the shoes off the runway. You can see them on the ‘Shoes on the Street’ thread over in the forums.

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Roger Vivier’s shoes have been a regular feature on this blog. Really, how could we not blog about Roger Vivier, the Fragonard of the shoe, when the designer is credited for inventing the stiletto heel, comma heel, and pilgram buckle.

Today, I present to you this Roger Vivier for Dior pump, circa 1954. It’s one of the first designs of a thin metal stake we now call the stiletto and is every bit as lovely as it was fifty odd years ago.

And if you have a ton of free time on your hands, and I do emphasize a ton, I highly encourage you to peruse the Costume Institute’s meticulously cataloged online collection, which is where I found this photo. It would take hours just to review the buckles and Chanel pieces on the site.

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Oh dear, where has the time gone?  All week I was looking forward to this interesting little Friday Shoe History Corner tidbit, and thanks to a crazily busy Friday, I’ve missed my deadline.

Ah well, you won’t hold it against me, will you?

Because I’m here to remind us that we live in wonderful times where our shoes are concerned.  Not only can a girl find a pair of comfy and stylish booties like the Bernardo Sahara bootie for the totally reasonable price of $169 (or, free for one lucky Shoeblog reader), but she can buy them in as many colors as she can lay her hands on.  And that’s on top of whatever other shoes her heart (and her wallet) may be able to handle, which in some cases is A LOT of shoes.

But such was not always the case.

In February of 1943, during WWII, the United States started a program of shoe rationing.

Yes, that’s right.  Shoe rationing.  Horrible thought, isn’t it?

People were issued rationing stamps, the same way other commodities were rationed during wartime.

 You were allowed 3 pairs of leather shoes per year (yes, only three) and needed to show the appropriate documentation when you wanted to buy a new pair to prove that it was still within your allotment.

Companies like Sears Roebuck offered mail-in shoe purchasing still, even with the rationing in effect.

Please note that certain shoes were not included in the rationing (slippers, infant shoes, and rubber shoes like galoshes).

That doesn’t leave much room for new footwear, does it?  Which was, of course, the point.  During wartime, the nation’s resources were being put to other, more essential uses.

So, no matter what your feelings are about the just-passed American election, take a moment to think about the fact that programs like this aren’t being put into effect anymore, that politics and war aren’t infringing upon your personal choices in how you want to spend your money.  I think that’s something we can all appreciate.

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